Hearthpwn

This deck seems very reliant on a combination of cards that need to be drawn together. Wouldn't it be easier to deal with aggressive decks if you stay away from Ancient watcher shenanigans  or a wild pyromancer and just play shadow words and mind visions to deal with the early game?

Hmmm, not a bad idea, but I can see some possible issues you may want to shore up:

• If the goal is to dominate with low cost creatures I think you should include less fragile and meaningful creatures. 3/2's are fine and dandy, but they're quickly outclassed by bigger creatures. Additionally, most of your creatures aren't even that big, but are 1/3's and the like. Those creatures can be fine, but also suffer from getting outclassed. Additionally, what are you planning to do when someone does 2-3 damage to the board? You need to be able to survive that.
• Some cards seem not really worth a card. Can you really capitalize on a free silence? It's still costing you a card and doesn't deal with the vanilla creature that's left out there. Some of the commons out there do basically the same thing but leave a warm body like the ironbeak owl or spellbreaker. The priest even has a mass dispel which will replace itself.
• So in summary I think it lacks some raw power and some staying power.

For suggestions, You could take a look at this deck which has a slightly different plan: I control the board with creatures as well, but they generally have plenty of toughness so I can get my advantage through healing them up. As a general pointer: try replacing some cyclers and other rather weak creatures with beef like a chillwind yeti or the lightspawn.

Seems like a fine deck to me. It's not that different from my own even. I do think that there are some good opportunities out there to improve the deck. For starters, I don't think your deck gains a lot of advantage from the priest class at all. It might be better suited towards a mage, a rogue or even a shaman. I say this because most of the creatures you play are not really good healing targets. Other than that I do like your curve and overall strategy. There may be some picks in there that I think aren't really good enough to play, like the ironfur grizzly and the novice engineer. The first of these just isn't very good at being a taunt and the second doesn't really have a good impact on the board. It may be worth it if it can be recycled to the benefit of the cult master or say a ghoul.

I do like the shadow madness in the future versions and more of the cards overall, though in that version of the deck I don't think the shattered sun clerics are worth their slot. My current deck is this abomination which is performing pretty well thus far, though the deck is screaming for one or two spellbreakers. Maybe this can give you some inspiration:

This priest deck shores up a couple of common strategies out there: rush decks and spell damage decks/AOE. It also has a fine record against decks filled with big beefy creatures. The main part of the deck are all reasonable creatures with lots of toughness or toughness boosting abilities. It also has the aforementioned silver bullet strategy against several deck types out there. Faerie dragons eat mages and priests. Chillwind yeti's are also good against priests and are just solid overall. The swamp ooze is good against decks with weapons, which occasionally happens.

From my experience with other ccg's like magic the gathering, middle-earth and star wars(decipher) I've been able to thus far go infinite in the arena, even if I've only played for a couple of weeks.

Basically there are two key conceptual things to keep in mind when in the arena. You should draft cards according to what role you need to fill in your strategy. If you're playing a controlling deck you should prioritize toughness over power and avoid a glut of cheap expendable and honestly interchangeable creatures. Secondly you should realize that the way most games get won is through card advantage IE trading one card for many cards. This is obvious with some cards like a flamestrike, but it applies to generic creatures as well. This is why I like a card like the Oasis Snapjaw, because it's 2/7 body can trade with up to 3 3/2's, which is a good thing to have in a defensive deck. Other more obvious creatures are spellbreakers or a fire elemental. Do keep in mind that you need to be alive to make use of these usually more expensive card advantage machines, so don't neglect your 1-3 mana slots. But, and this is really important, know what you can get out of each of those early cards. An elven archer might look fine on paper, but it's a pretty useless card when you cast it later in the game and ping their big fat 6/7 ogre. It's a very situational card that is only fine when you can always cast it on your first turn and ping their 2/1, which rarely happens.

So for your controlling strategy, a short list:

• 4 mana is the point where creatures generally become good or relevant at most points of the game. A turn six chillwind yeti will still be a really solid creature on the field. If a decision comes up between a good 4 drop and a good 5 drop and you don't need more power for your strategy, then pick the 4 drop.
• At 3 mana and below you need good cards against a rushing strategy. This can be a card like a frostbolt, or a creature that is guaranteed to trade for an early creature, like a random 2/3. If you can, pick creatures that have some additional silver-bullet role, like a faerie dragon or an weapon-eating ooze or the ever common 2/3 scarecrow that leaves behind a 2/1 after croaking.
• Don't put a high priority on late game. You don't need many of them to get ahead of your opponent. Many of my priest arena decks manage with 3 minions that cost 6 and upwards. And of these as many as possible will be temple enforcers, because toughness is what determines just how many creatures you can soak.
• Don't put much worth in cheap cyclers. You only have thirty slots and I can almost never afford slots for a 1/2 for 2 mana that draws a card. Those minions just don't affect the board enough. You might as well not play them and play a more powerful card instead. The only one of the common that I like is the gnomish inventor, because a 2/4 body can at least deal with some creatures and hero powers.

Some play advice:

• You may think you have drafted a controlling deck, but it's very likely that he thought the same thing when building his deck. Know what your best strategy is at the time. You should learn to get a feeling for when to deal damage to the face or to trade creatures. And you should learn to quickly adapt between the two as the situation changes.
• Mulligan wisely. I pretty much never keep a card that costs more than four, and rarely do I keep cards if I don't have something to do in the first three turns. I've seen people keep deathwings and die before casting them(I knew because of mind visions).
• Play to your strengths. When I play my shaman draft  deck and I know the way I win is with flametongue totems or a general boost like a bloodlust then I will play the game to capitalize on plays that make these cards better. For instance, in these decks I will try to keep summoning totems as often as I can.
• Play to your outs when you are behind. If your opponent plays a really good card, you need to know just how you will defeat this. If you do so with a fireball, then you need to make sure that this creature will be at six hitpoints or lower. If your opponent has a better deck for the lategame, then you need to focus on killing him as fast as possible and play to capitalize on cards that will benefit this strategy.
• Know what could be in your opponent's deck. When facing a priest, you should get creatures with 4 power and at least 3 uncontested health on the field. This plays around their suite of removal(3 or less power, 5 or more power, 2 damage on a single target, 2 damage on all targets). Similarly, many warriors will be playing the +3/+3 on a damaged minion card and executes, so don't leave their creatures with wounds on them and don't fight creatures with your endgame monster.

These are all fairly basic pointers, but hopefully this helps.