Hearthpwn

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The Guide:

The parts that stand out the most in this deck are the single Cogmaster and the double Mechanical Yeti. Originally, I ran 2 Cogmasters, two Mirror Entities (and no Counterspell), and 1 Mechanical Yeti.

My first change was to replace a Mirror Entity. This was because I would sometimes find myself with 2 Mad Scientists on the board, or 1 on the board and a secret in hand, or a secret on the board and a secret in hand. Basically, whenever I drew 2 out of these 4 cards, I would lose some options, which would sometimes kill my tempo. By making one of them a Counterspell, I would need to draw 3 of these four cards for the same problem to arise. Which cuts your odds of drawing one in half. (If you have 15 cards left in your deck, then on average, there is a 50% chance that you used each card, and (1/2)^2 = 25%, while (1/2)^3 is only 12.5%.
I chose to add Counterspell because it helps to secure games just like Loathweb. Just be careful if a Mechanical Yeti has died, as this will give them a spare part to activate your Counterspell.

My second change was to replace a Cogmaster with a Mechanical Yeti. I did this because this deck lacks draw power, and drawing a Cogmaster late game is basically skipping a turn. I chose to replace Cogmaster instead of Clockwork Gnome because Clockwork Gnome is a Mech, which helps to activate Cogmaster, Tinkertown Technician, and Goblin Blastmage. In addition its spare part helps with Archmage Antonidas. (Furthermore, if your opponent doesn't count your spare parts, you can appear to have a larger hand late game, and even if they do count your spare parts, since they don't know which of the nine they are, they have to consider all nine possibilities and consider which ones it's worth playing around).
I chose to add Mechanical Yeti because a 4/5 is strong at all points of the game, and because it is a Mech, which helps to activate Cogmaster, Tinkertown Technician, and Goblin Blastmage. In addition its spare part helps with Archmage Antonidas.

Card Explanations:

Cogmaster: A fantastic turn 1 play if you have a Mech, and its 2 Health allows it to stick. Even works as a 1/2 vs aggro decks. Continues to be a good play until late game, and since it also isn't a Mech itself, I run 1.

Clockwork Gnome: Unlike Cogmaster, this card only has 1 Health, which makes it easy to kill. However, if your opponent has a 3/2 they want to play, this will make them think twice. Even once Clockwork Gnome is killed, that spare part can come in handy down the road (and give the illusion that your hand is bigger than it really is in the meantime).

Frostbolt: Three damage allows you to clear enemy minions with 2 or 3 health (4 with Hero Power) and freeze anything with more. Similarly, it can be used to burst down the enemy hero or to freeze them to prevent them from attacking.

Annoy-o-Tron: Protects your weaker minions from harm and forces you opponent to delay their plans. Great against aggro since it can usually trade for 2 to 3 enemy minions.

Mad Scientist: One of the games best cards for a reason: for 2 mana, you get a 2/2 and a 3 mana secret, which also helps to thin your deck. Its Deathrattle also allows it to be played on an already strong board (If you have 3 or 4 minions, playing a minion with Deathrattle doesn't make you as susceptible to AOE as if you played a minion without Deathrattle; Still not recommended, but if you have no other options, then it can be necessary to avoid losing tempo).

Mechwarper: The core of all Mech decks and the king of value town. This helps you to have a perfect curve more easily (Using all of your mana on each of the first few turns) since it can allow plays like: Cogmaster, Mechwarper, Piloted Shredder (Which would normally be a 1, 2, HP, 4 curve, but in this case it's 1, 2, 4, GG). Try to defend it with cards like Annoy-o-Tron and Frostbolt.

Snowchugger: Chugga Chugga Mother %&ckers! This card can single-handedly destroy Warriors, Rogues, Paladins, Hunters and even Druids and Shamans! With Snowchugger, most of the time you should prioritize hitting the face against these classes. It should make for a chilling victory!

Counterspell: You don't want to draw this, but if you do wait to play it once you opponent has used all of their cheap spells, like the coin and spare parts.

Mirror Entity: You also don't want to draw this, but if you do then play it when your opponent desperately needs minions, since this won't have a choice in such a scenario. Against Druids, play this just before they have 7 mana, because Druids have the best 7 mana cards and often don't have a choice whether or not to play them (Ancient of War, Ancient of Lore, Dr. Boom, and maybe Malorne? loljk).

Spider Tank: One of the most efficient cards in the game, and it's a Mech. The best stats to have are 3/4 for 3, 4/5 for 4, 5/6 for 5, and 6/7 for 6 (In all of these cases this is the minimum amount of health for the given attack).

Tinkertown Technician: So strong. Too strong. If you have a mech, you must play this card. 3 mana for a 4/4 and a spare part is just too good.

Fireball: Use it to kill threats, taunts, and to burst your opponent down. When used with Frostbolt it can be devestating. (Common targets include Druid of the Claw, Sen'jin Shieldmasta, Dr. Boom, Sludge Belcher, and any minion with at least 4 attack and at least 5 health).

Goblin Blastmage: One of the best cards in the deck. (I feel like I've been saying that a lot, but I guess that's why this deck is great, lol). For for mana, you get a 5/4 (decent) and 4 damage to random enemies... Holy guacamole! That's absurdly strong! Use it on an aggro deck to wipe their board, or in conjunction with you Hero Power, Frost Bolt, and Fireball to accommodate for the random element involved. This is a card that you avoid playing unless you have a Mech, even more so than Tinkertown Technician. Just make sure that you get your money's worth from this guy, because it can win you games!

Mechanical Yeti: 4/5 for 4 and a Mech and a spare part is super efficient, especially when you get a discount from Mechwarper and/or play it on turn 3. If you are looking to modify this deck, the only card that can be removed without automatically making this deck worse is 1 of these Yetis, and MAYBE 2 if you replace it with a Mech. Mechanical Yeti can be stronger than Piloted Shredder depending on the situation. For example, if you opponent has a 3/2 on the board, then Piloted Shredder can trade and then give you a random 2 drop (like a 3/2), while Mechanical Yeti will leave you with a 4/2.

Piloted Shredder: Your safest play against a control/midrange decks. This card is usually stronger than Mechanical Yeti, and less susceptible to AOE since it's a Deathrattle. A must play in any Mech deck and even in most decks that aren't Mech.

Loathweb: Definitely one of this decks MVPs. I can't emphasize how much this card has helped me win games. Simply play it a turn before you plan on having lethal and your enemies options will usually be reduced to none, or at the very least, they will be forced to make a very inefficient play which will inevitably cost them the game anyways. At the very worst, Loathweb makes a solid 5 drop, so you should ALWAYS RUN THIS!

Archmage Antonidas: One of the best win conditions for this deck. Archmage Antonidas is best played on turn 8 or later and in combination with spare parts. Usually, when you play Archmage Antonidas, you either win the game or your opponent is forced to remove it, even if if costs them all of their mana, board, and hand. Just remember to be patient and play Archmage Antonidas at the right time. DON'T RUSH HIM!

Dr. Boom: The most powerful all purpose card in the game. 90% of the time, if it's turn 7 and you have Dr. Boom, then you play him. It's just that simple. And Dr. Boom is even stronger in a Mech deck than in any other, since his Boom Bots count as Mechs! With Dr. Boom, you just can't go wrong. 10/10 WOULD BANG!

Playstyle:

This is a midrange deck, which means that against an aggro deck, you play like a control, and against a control deck, you play like an aggro. It is also important to note that without drawpower, it is imperative that you not overextend. If your opponent has AOE then it's GG unless you hang on to some cards. I especially recommend that you hold onto Mechs in case you draw a card that requires one on the board. There's nothing sadder than playing a Tinkertown Technician or Goblin Blastmage without a Mech... except for having an Archmage Antonidas but no spare parts, so save them parts, too. (Especially if you get a finicky cloakfield: Turn 8 Archmage Antonidas + Finicky Cloakfield = GG). Finally, don't forget to prioritize playing Mechs if you don't have any on the board (to set up for Tinkertown Technician and Goblin Blastmage), or if you have a Mechwarper up (for the ramp value), and to play Tinkertown Technician because you might not get another chance (but reaally consider the Goblin Blastmage play, because in the right scenario, it can give you a ridiculously good advantage, so sometimes just Hero Powering and passing is a better play).

Mulligan Guide:

When you Mulligan, you should plan for your first 4 turns. Make sure that you have a play for each turn that makes use of all of your mana. Keep your 1 drops, keep your 2 drops, and keep 3 drops if you already have turns 1 and 2 set up. If you have a Mechwarper, then even a four drop Mech can be kept since it can be played for 3 mana with Mechwarper's discount.

Possible Substitutions:

As I said earlier, I would only recommend removing a Mechanical Yeti, so here are your options with a ratio of how good they are compared to Mechanical Yeti in this deck:

Azure Drake 9/10

Antique Healbot 9/10

Kezan Mystic 8/10

Toshley 8/10

Harvest Golem 7/10

Soot Spewer 7/10

Arcane Intellect 7/10

Piloted Sky Golem 6/10

Sludge Belcher 6/10

 

SIGNIFICANT ALTERATIONS

Remove 2 Mad Scientists, 1 Counterspell and 1 Mirror Entity.
Now you have 4 more slots to experiment with. Try adding Fel Reaver, Mana Wyrm, Flame Cannon etc.